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With aquaponics you can simultaneously raise fish and grow plants, year round, in any climate. It’s sustainable, uses less water than conventional plant and fish production, and can produce high yields. Plus it requires no weeding. Could aquaponics be a good addition to your farm? Here are some considerations and resources to help you make that decision. What is Aquaponics? According to the National Agricultural Library, Aquaponics is: The science of aquaculture includes both the cultivation of underwater plants, and the breeding, rearing and harvesting of underwater fish, shellfish and other living organisms. The practice of aquaculture can both fulfill future food needs and sustain natural resources. Aquaponics is a combination of fish and plant production and hydroponics (growing plants without soil). Aquaponics vs. Aquaculture It’s easy to confuse the two A-words, so let’s cover some terminology. Growing plants without soil is called hydroponics. Raising fish in an artificial environment is called aquaculture. Aquaponics is the integration of the two. Hydroponic plant growers require nutrient-rich water. Aquaculture fish producers need to dispose of nutrient-rich water. Combining these systems is a brilliant and efficient idea. So much so that nature has used it ever since the first fish. Or the first fish egg. How Aquaponics Works In addition to plants and fish, the third required component of aquaponics is bacteria. The primary input in aquaponics is fish food. Fish eat the food then produce urine (containing ammonia, which in quantity is toxic to fish and plants) and fecal matter. Heterotrophic bacteria consume the fecal matter, excess food, and decaying plants to produce more ammonia as well as other compounds. In addition, bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite (NO2), and then to nitrate (NO3), which plants consume. Bacteria will naturally attach to the tank and its contents when ammonia and nitrite appear. Simplified, it looks like this: You feed the fish The fish make waste Bacteria convert the waste to nutrients Plants use the nutrients to grow (plus they filter the water) Sounds easy, right? Well, part of the trick is making the right fish/plant choices. It is essential that you select a combination that shares similar requirements in terms of temperature, pH levels, and other factors. Best Fish for Aquaponics Fish frequently chosen for aquaponic systems include: Bass, Bluegill/sunfish/crappie Catfish Goldfish/koi/carp Pacu Salmon Perch Tilapia Trout Among your first considerations when choosing fish are water temperature, pH range, and water quality requirements that are in line with your intended plants. Fish heartiness is another big factor. Trout are great-tasting and do well in colder water, but they require more careful monitoring and control of pH and dissolved oxygen levels. Salmon are similarly tricky as they are less disease-resistant than other species. Breeding habits and speed of growth are important considerations, too. However, keep in mind that faster isn’t always better, especially if you have a small tank. What fish are available – and legal – in your area will also be a factor. Eating is a big consideration, both for people and fish. This includes what food your fish will eat, whether your fish will eat each other, and whether or not anyone will want to eat the fish. Ornamental fish are popular in aquaponic systems, but some, like goldfish, cannot be eaten. There are many resources for choosing fish, including online comparison charts from howtoaquaponic.com and gogreenaquaponics.com. Tilapia are near the top of these and many other lists, as they are a hearty, great tasting species that reproduce quickly and don’t eat other fish. They do require warmer water, however, and this can increase costs in colder climates. Bluegill are similarly tasty and hearty, and can tolerate colder water. What’s more, throughout North America bluegill are easily caught and can be transferred to an aquaponic system. They can be cannibalistic, however, when breeding. Plants for Aquaponics While nearly any plant can be grown aquaponically, best results occur when plants are chosen in tandem with fish to ensure they both thrive in the same environment. To compare plant options, both fish resources listed above also have plant sections, as does aquaponics.com. All three resources cite leafy lettuces as among the most robust and marketable plant choices. In addition to lettuces, kale, Swiss chard, and watercress also thrive readily. Other popular choices that may be better suited to more established systems include cauliflower, cucumbers, peppers, strawberries, and tomatoes. Keep in mind that many non-edible plant options, including ornamental flowers, are also frequently chosen for aquaponics. Looking for a recommendation of a proven approach? Lettuce and tilapia are a very popular combination for both home and commercial aquaponic systems. Fish Food for Aquaponics System Many of the same factors you use to choose food for other livestock (or for your family) apply to fish as well. Will you choose organic? Will you select only non-GMO options? Will you try to avoid fish meal in the name of sustainability, even if others report that their tilapia grows best on fish meal diets? Beyond these preferences, the fish you choose will play a role in the food you select. You can select species that are carnivores, detritivores, herbivores, or omnivores. Fish that require high protein diets will be more expensive to feed. Choosing carnivorous fish can be costly when they eat each other. As you might expect, omnivorous fish are easy to feed. Accordingly, you should consider food choice when selecting fish. In addition, it’s important to note that cheap food can negatively impact water quality and increase filtration needs by producing additional wastes. Three Kinds of Aquaponic Systems Another point to consider when choosing plants is compatibility between each plant and the type of aquaponic system you’ll use. There are three main types; media bed, nutrient film technique, and raft. Media Bed In a media-based system, plants are grown in a media like gravel or clay pebbles, which help to filter waste. Also known as “flood and drain” systems, they are the most commonly used aquaponic system, and are compatible with both small plants and larger fruiting varieties. While they are easy and inexpensive to set up, media systems are difficult to scale into commercial use. Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) Nope, it's not the hyped up NFT (Non-fungible token) that all the kids are talking about. In a NFT system, plants are grown in a long channel in which water flows continuously in a very thin film. Once water reaches the end of the channel it is redirected to the fish tank. Because these channels can be stacked, this type of system can be easily accessed and can make very efficient use of vertical space. NFT systems work best with greens that have smaller root systems. Raft or Deep Water Culture (DWC) In a raft or DWC system, plants are grown on (polystyrene or foam boards) that float on the water. Raft systems require much more water, which in turn makes them more stable: large fluctuations in nutrients and temperature are less likely. For this reason they are common in commercial usage, despite having increased filtration demands. Raft systems are ideally suited for smaller leafy plants like lettuce. A more detailed comparison of all three systems can be seen at ecolifeconservation.org. What Equipment Is Necessary for Aquaponics System? First you need some place to put everything. Allen Pattillo and the University of Iowa created an informative series of videos on aquaponics. In “Everything You Need to Know About Aquaponics,” Allen indicates that the decision of what kind of building works best for aquaponics depends on whether it is easier for you to produce light or heat. If light is more costly where you live, you may choose to grow in a greenhouse. This is also a great option if you already have a greenhouse. On the other hand, if it’s cheaper for you to produce light, then growing in a warehouse with artificial light might be the best choice for you. If you choose to grow in a warehouse, you will need to shop for lights. If so, advancements in LED technology are continually bringing more efficient options to market. In addition to a structure and light, required equipment include fish tanks, filters, and pumps. Aquaponics Fish Tanks Fish tanks are available in a variety of shapes and sizes, and in a wide range of prices. In terms of shape, round tanks offer better circulation than square or rectangular options. Tanks that result in more water surface area will produce more oxygen; short and wide being preferred over tall and narrow. Keep in mind that larger tanks not only facilitate growing larger fish (and support species that require more space), but also reduce fluctuations in temperature and pH levels, producing a more stable environment. Make certain that your tanks, or whatever they are lined in, are food safe. Both metal and plastic can introduce toxins into your system, so this is an important point. Solid Waste Filters In addition to bacteria naturally transferring ammonia into nitrate, you will also have to actively deal with solid wastes. There are three kinds of solid wastes in an aquaponic system: settable, suspended, and floating solids. As the name suggests, settable solids settle to the bottom, where they can be collected by a swirl filter, radial flow filter, or a clarifier. Suspended solids are more difficult to collect and are more prevalent in DWC and NFT systems. Common solutions include bird netting, and screen or drum filtration. Floating solids need to be broken down, likely turning into suspended solids. This may be accomplished using the return line of your pump. Addition information on various solid waste filters can be found at howtoaquaponic.com. Water Pumps for Aquaponics System The water in your tank needs to be recirculated between 1 and 3 times every hour. The capacity of your tank is a primary factor in choosing an appropriate pump. Also important is how much elevation difference there is between your pump and where the water needs to go. Consider these three pump types for your aquaponics system: Submerged pumps are cheap and easy to install, but can create unwanted heat and are less efficient, especially problematic in larger tanks. An inline pump is more labor-intensive to install, and is noisier. Airlift pumps use compressed air to move water. They are typically not submerged and tend to not be as efficient in larger tanks. Another factor is efficiency. Buying a more expensive pump that requires less electricity to run may pay for itself quickly. It’s important to remember that electricity, both for pumps and growing lights (when applicable), make up a significant part of your operating cost. Finally, don’t confuse water pumps, or airlift pumps, with an air pump. An air pump is another vital item on your list: this is how you manage dissolved oxygen in your system. Closing Thoughts Continuously producing healthy plants – and fish – all year round in any climate is a pretty exciting thought, particularly to those of use in the colder latitudes. Like so many endeavors, adventures in aquaponics are highly scalable, so you may choose to simply start small to see if aquaponics might be a good fit for you. I hope this post inspires you to learn more. Think Aquaponics could be a good fit for your farm business? Check out this great video series from Fisheries and Aquaculture Extension Specialist D. Allen Pattillo that walks through everything you need to know about getting started with aquaponics. Resources Aquaponics – National Agricultural Library, U.S. Department of Agriculture Best Aquaponic Fish Tanks – greenandvibrant.com Go Green Aquaponics Blog – gogreenaquaponics.com Seven Rules-of-thumb to Follow in Aquaponics – The Food and Agriculture Organization UKNOW: Aquaponics" Video Series – Iowa State University Extension What is Aquaponics? – howtoaquaponic.com Aquaponics photo in the BGSU Biology Greenhouse by Mbrickn, Wikimedia Commons FarmBrite’s livestock management features work great with fish – or whatever you’re raising. Try them for free.

Is there really a comparison between goats and cows? They're both pretty awesome. I might just be really love agriculture but I'm always up for discussing the pros and cons of goats vs. cows. If you're considering adding one or both of these to your farm here are a few things to weigh. Goats Pros & Cons People love goats. They're friendly, humorous and fun to be around. Just don't let them get bored. Pros: Easy to manage and train (depending on the goat) Don't need that much space, so they are a great choice for small hold farms Meat, cheese (chèvre!), hide, wool (depending on the species) Smaller and easier to transport Handling is relatively safe and easy Minimal upfront costs and investments Adaptable to various climates and environments They eat weeds (you can even rent them out for natural weed control) Cons: With any milk animal you have to keep breeding them Less milk than cows and hardly any cream Goat milk and meat are not widely popular (in the US) You may need to purchase electric fencing...and keep a close eye on it, goats are notorious escape artists. Cows Pros & Cons There are many reasons many people love owning cows. Some of the reasons are; saving money, exercise, health, and self sufficiency. Also, some types of cows are more friendly and easier to keep than others. But having a cow isn't right for everyone so here are some things to look at when thinking about a cow. Pros: All the milk you can handle-and extra for friends, neighbors or other animals. Meat, cheese, cream, butter, yogurt, hide More manure - depending on how you look at this it could be a con as well They aren't picky about what they eat Cow milks and beef are common and popular (in the US) and can provide reliable revenue stream Cons: Need more space about 2-3 acres per cow. They eat more you may have to supplement hay Hard to transport Depending on where you live finding a bull might be challenging. Using artificial insemination might be a way around this but that requires training and equipment. A larger animal and can be harder to manage Upfront costs can make it difficult to get started You'll need a milking stand & the right cow personality/training to be milked Well, which one do you think wins? I believe it all comes down to personal preference. I just want a few of both! What are your thoughts? Which is your favorite? We'd love to hear from you. Want to learn more? Check out these great resources: Best Goat Breeds for Dairy, Meat, Fiber and Fun Top 15 Cattle Breeds for your Farm Getting Started with Goat Breeding How many cows can I keep per acre? Beginner's Guide to Buying Cattle The Beginner’s Guide to Keeping Livestock Records Need help keeping track of your Goat herd or Cattle herd? Give Farmbrite a try for Free

Knowing when to vaccinate your calves is an important part of cattle management. Calves can develop many diseases, but the best way to prevent them is to vaccinate them. There are certain ages at which some vaccinations are more important than others, and these vary depending on whether you’re raising dairy or beef calves. Below is a guide to calf vaccinations so you know when it is recommended to administer certain vaccines, and how these vaccines help to keep your new farm additions healthy and strong. Why should calves be vaccinated? Young calves are susceptible to many infectious diseases, including viruses, bacteria and parasites. Vaccines protect against these common illnesses by stimulating the immune system so that it can recognize and fight off disease. When you vaccinate your calf, you’re providing him with long-term protection against many important diseases. You can also help protect other cattle on your farm or ranch by vaccinating your calves and taking other steps to keep them healthy. Vaccination is a preventative measure that can help you avoid losses, but it's also used as a diagnostic tool when disease outbreaks occur. When your vet administers a vaccination, they’ll often take an oral swab from the calf's mouth to test for infection. This helps determine which vaccine is needed. Vaccines can be administered at any time of year, but it's most common for farmers to vaccinate their livestock during the fall and winter months. This is when diseases like BVD and PI3 are most prevalent. If you're raising your calves on pasture or indoors—or if you have recently purchased new cattle—there are some critical times when vaccination should be done in order to protect them from disease and increase their chance of survival into adulthood: Birth to six weeks of age The timeframe in which you should give your calf its first vaccine depends on whether it is a dairy or beef calf. Dairy calves receive more vaccinations earlier in life, while beef cattle usually don’t receive shots until at least four weeks of age. In both cases, these vaccines prevent disease by making the animal produce antibodies against bacteria or viruses that can cause disease. Here is a guide to the first vaccines that each type of calf should receive during their first few weeks of life: Dairy Calves Vaccines for Dairy Calves in their First Week: • Intranasal IBR/PI3 Vaccines for Dairy Calves, Five Weeks of Age: • IBR • PI3 • BVD • BRSV-MLV Beef Calves Vaccines for Beef Calves 4-5 weeks prior to weaning: • IBR • BVD • BRSV • PI3 • Pasteurella The first vaccine given to calves is usually a combination vaccine containing an effective dose of all the major respiratory diseases: • Bovine viral diarrhea (BVD) virus — a respiratory infection that causes coughing, fever and runny nose • Infectious bovine rhinotracheitis (IBR) viruses — also known as "shipping fever" because it's transmitted by flies • Parainfluenza Virus 3 (PI3) — an upper respiratory disease that causes nasal discharge, difficulty breathing, and fever • Bovine Respiratory Syncytial Virus (BRSV) — a stress-related disease that weakens the immune system and causes respiratory symptoms It's important to vaccinate your calf on schedule. Skipping a dose can leave the calf vulnerable to disease and may require another series of shots. Work with your veterinarian to ensure that your calf is getting the proper vaccinations during the proper timeframes. Vaccines to give at weaning: Most infectious diseases are spread from cow to calf, so it’s important to vaccinate cows before calving. Giving vaccines at this time also protects calves from diseases that may be more common in the environment (such as leptospirosis) and offers protection for the cow during her lactation. If you sell your calves after they are weaned, it is important that they be vaccinated against clostridial diseases and tetanus prior to sale. These vaccinations should be given at least four weeks before market; however, they can also be administered up to six months after birth if necessary. If you intend on keeping your calf on farm for another year or two before sending them off somewhere else, then it's best that he receives his vaccination series at a young age. This allows him to develop immunity against all major diseases by the time he goes out into the world. To be on the safe side, it is recommended to vaccinate calves at least three months before they are going anywhere off of your property. This will ensure that they develop immunity against all major diseases and are protected from any infectious agents in your environment. Here are some common vaccines given to calves at weaning: Dairy Calves Vaccines for dairy calves at two months (Boosters): • IBR • PI3 • BDV • BRSV-MLV Vaccines for Dairy Calves at three Months: • 7-way Clostridium with Haemophilus • Pinkeye Beef Calves • IBR • BVD • BRSV • PI3 • 7-way blackleg booster • 5-way leptospirosis Four to six months of age While your calf may not appear sick, it is important to vaccinate them at four to six months of age. These vaccines are usually administered by a veterinarian. Here are some vaccines commonly administered to calves at four to six months: Beef Calves • 7-way blackleg • IBR • BVD • BRSV • Bangs vaccine (heifer calves only) • PI3 Dairy Calves • IBR • PI3 • BVD-MLV • Pasturella toxoid • Bangs vaccine • 7-way Clostridium with Haemophilus When arriving on a new farm If you're bringing in a newborn calf that has no prior vaccine records, it's best to vaccinate as soon as possible. Newborn calves are especially vulnerable to disease, as their immune system has not yet had the chance to fully develop. The sooner vaccination can be given after birth, the better chance your calf has at protecting itself from common diseases like BVD and PI3. A veterinarian can administer these vaccines during the weaning period (about three weeks after birth) or before weaning (anywhere from two months old on). As the calf ages As a calf ages, he will require more types of vaccines. Vaccines are given for several reasons. They can be used to prevent diseases in calves, boost their immune systems and prevent disease outbreaks. Vaccines can also be used to prevent disease transmission from other animals on the farm or from wild animals that may carry disease. The vaccination schedule for each animal is determined by the farm veterinarian based on its age and risk factors for disease exposure (such as proximity to wildlife). The most common vaccines given to cattle include: • Brucellosis vaccine – This is a bacterial disease that can cause abortions in pregnant cows. It is also transmissible to humans, leading to flu-like symptoms and arthritis. • Bovine viral diarrhea (BVD) vaccine – BVD causes respiratory disease and death in young calves. It can also be spread from animal to animal through contact with infected feces. • Coccidiosis vaccine – This bacterial infection can lead to diarrhea, weight loss and death in young calves. It is often a problem on large dairy farms where cattle are kept indoors for long periods of time. • Contagious bovine pleuropneumonia (CBPP) vaccine – This bacterial disease causes respiratory disease in young calves and can be spread through contact with contaminated fluids or by wild birds. At thirteen to sixteen months, dairy cattle should receive these vaccines: • IBR • PI3 • BVD • BRSV-MLV • 5-way Leptospirosis Keep track of your herds vaccinations is vital. Take a look at Farmbrite to help you keep track of important dates like booster, withdrawal and weening dates. Conclusion It is important to remember that not all calves will need all the vaccines mentioned in this article. The type of calf, his environment and where he came from all play a role in determining which vaccines he needs. If you have any questions about when your calf should be vaccinated and which vaccines should be administered, talk with a veterinarian who has experience working with cattle. Sources: https://hcvconline.com/about-our-clinic/recommended-vaccinations-for-large-animals/ https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_b/B223/index.html https://www.vetfolio.com/learn/article/vaccination-programs-for-calves https://extension.umn.edu/beef-cow-calf/cattle-vaccine-basics#the-core-vaccinations-for-cattle-2068563

Cattle have been part of human culture and society for over 10,000 years. As human's moved from nomadic hunter-gather peoples to cultivating crops and farms the domestication of livestock quickly followed. Today there are well over 800 distinct breeds of cattle that humans have domesticated or have played an active role in selectively breeding. Fun facts about cows. You may already know about this but cow milk is delicious! You can also make so many things with it. I mean, where would we be without cheese pizza? There are over 800 different cattle breeds. Cattle are herd animals and so need to watch out for predators. Cows can see almost 360 degrees. Cows are big animals and they chew a lot of food! Cows spend about 8 hours a day chewing and chew 40-50 times a minutes. Eating machines. And all those cows take a lot of space. Cows and other livestock use over 77% of all the arable agriculture land on earth. Cows sleep standing up. They also lay on the ground too. The rumen, their stomach with 4 parts, can hold up to 50 gallons of food. Just for perspective, a bathtub can hold about 30-50 gallons of water. Those cows convert feed, like grasses and grains, into muscle, bone, and fat. The hamburger debuted at the Worlds Fair in St. Louis in 1904. A holstein has lots of black spots which are unique and like fingerprints. Cows can live for more than 20 years. The average age is only about 2 years old though. They are mostly raised for meat. How long are cows pregnant for? Cows are like humans. And just like people, cows are pregnant for 9 months. Do you have cattle? Farmbrite can help you keep track of them, give our cattle and livestock software a try. Additional Cattle Resources: Cattle feed conversion calculator Top cattle breeds for your farm Beginner's guide to buying cattle How to be successful at a cattle auction Free cattle record book Cattle management software

Since the end of slavery in America in 1865 Black farmers have generously fed and supported their communities. Over the past 158 years Black farmers have consistently contributed key innovations that have helped to advance modern agriculture. Today, we want to celebrate some major innovations and contributions that Black farmers have made to advance modern agriculture. Regenerative Farming Practices While working as a professor at Tuskegee Institute, George Washington Carver developed techniques to improve soils depleted by repeat plantings of cotton (a nitrogen depleting crop). Carver, an agricultural scientist, inventor, and educator developed crop rotation methods that encouraged farmers to alternate cotton plantings with the plantings of corn or legumes (like peanuts - a great source for naturally adding nitrogen back into the the soil). This early regenerative practice not only helped to improve soils depleted by cotton, but also increased farm productivity and created more diversity of crops produced by southern farmers. This technique of alternating crop rotations to regenerate soil health is still a core practice of regenerative farming techniques today and provides a sustainable and environmental solution to synthetic fertilizers. Composting In addition to the development of crop rotation techniques to support regenerative soils, Professor George Washington Carver advocated for the use of compost as a way to reintroduce organic matter and nutrients into the soil. Through his experiments, Dr Carver demonstrated that adding composting material to soils he was able to dramatically increase the productivity of farms compared with previous methods. Today, the use of compost is a critical practice for organic farming and is an excellent alternative to the use of synthetic fertilizers. Automated Seed Planters On October 14, 1834, Henry Blair, born a free man in 1807 was the 2nd African American to be issued a United States patent. Even without a formal education, Blair was a successful farmer in Montgomery County, Maryland and he is credited for 2 patented inventions; a corn planter and a cotton planter. Henry's inventions were described as a very simple, but ingenious machines. They were horse driven and the machine would automatically open the furrow, drop seeds at proper intervals, cover the seed and level the soil. This allowed farmers to plant as rapidly as a horse can draw a plough across the field. He believed his machine could save the labor of eight men. His innovative planters were some of the earliest automated precision planting machines ever. Refrigerated Transportation System Frederick McKinley Jones, he become a talented mechanic through his mechanical work on a farm in Minnesota. After serving in the U.S. Army during World War I, Jones returned to work on the farm. While working there Jones educated himself in electronics, radio transmitters and synced motion picture projectors (syncing the sound and pictures). Jones went on to design and patent a portable air cooling system that allowed trucks to transport perishable foods. The system was installed in trucks, boats, planes, and trains and helped to improve the worldwide trade. Jones and partner Joseph A. Numero founded the U.S. Thermo Control Company (later known as Thermo King), which saw massive growth during World War II. His company and inventions helped to preserve blood, medicine and food - saving countless lives. Sustainable Farming Practices In 1987, Dr Booker T. Whatley, an author, horticulturist and Tuskegee University professor, published his book "How To Make $100,000 Farming 25 Acres". In the book Whatley explores key tenants of farming that help to minimize unnecessary costs, reduce waste and maximize income for small scale farmers. While building on the regenerative approaches developed and taught by George Washington Carver, Whatley has helped to guide future generations of small scale farmers to success and sustainability. Whatley passionately advocated for “smaller and smarter” farms, building on Carver's ideas to “Take care of the waste on the farm and turn it into useful channels.” These pioneers in small scale, highly productive regenerative farms continue to enable new generations of farmers to start in and succeed in agriculture. Dr. Whatley's 10 Commandments. Thy small farm shalt: Provide year-round, daily cash flow. Be a pick-your-own operation. Have a guaranteed market with a Clientele Membership Club. Provide year-round, full-time employment. Be located on a hard-surfaced road within a radius of 40 miles of a population center of at least 50,000, with well-drained soil and an excellent source of water. Produce only what they clients demand—and nothing else! Shun middle-men and middle-women like the plague, for they are a curse upon thee. Consist of compatible, complementary crop components that earn a minimum of $3,000 per acre annually. Be 'weatherproof', at least as far as possible with both drip and sprinkler irrigation. Be covered by a minimum of $250,000 worth ($1 million is better) of liability insurance. Community Supported Agriculture (CSAs) & U-PICK Today Community Supported Agriculture (CSAs) have become more common-place and provide for a way for local communities to connect with and support their community farmers, but this wasn't always the way. Booker T. Whatley advocated for the concept in the 1960s, calling it a Clientele Membership Club. Members of the club would prepay for a membership fee, which supported the farmer's costs and in return they would receive fresh produce which they would pick themselves (U-PICK). The model helped to ensure that the farm had a consistent and reliable cash flow and the U-PICK model reduced the time and labor costs needed to harvest. U-PICK Models have been popular throughout history, but didn't really pick up until the 1950s, helped by farming innovators and advocates like Booker T. Whatley. He believed that visits to the local farm could be a way to enrich customer's lives and provide an enjoyable excursion from city life. He also believed that farmers' markets were too much work for small farmers. Thanks in part to Whatley today customers have more opportunities to connect with and support their local farmer through CSAs and U-PICKs. Dr. Whatley's work continues to inspire new generations of farmers with sustainable techniques like the U-PICK and CSA farming models. There are many other black innovators and farmers that are not mentioned here and we celebrate them as well. Home Gardens and Addressing Food Insecurity Having enough food is a basic need all of us have but having access to enough food is something that has been a struggle for some black individuals through the time that they have been in the U.S. In the Antebellum South on plantations, slaves built what were called, slave gardens. These were gardens that they could grow food and medicine for their families and communities. After working very long days in the fields they would come home and tend their own gardens. Thomas Jefferson wrote about the resilience of the gardens of his own slaves on Monticello. These innovations are just a small narrative of the long history of Black Farmers being innovative and resilient in their communities. Supporting Black Farmers If you're interested in supported Black farmers, we'd encourage you to check out these great resources and organizations to find support or support a local black farmer in your community: National Black Farmers Association Black Urban Farmers Association Black Farmers Network Black Farmers in America (1865-2000) Black Farmers in America NPR Story Black Urban Growers Family Agriculture Resource Management Services (F.A.R.M.S.) The National Black Food and Justice Alliance Soil Generation While Farmbrite is not a nonprofit, we support organizations that are committed to reducing hunger, improving access to fresh food, improve sustainable & regenerative agricultural practices while strengthening their communities through sustainable agriculture. If you're part of an agricultural organization working to eliminate food deserts or reduce hunger, an urban community farm serving under privileged or minority communities or a community food hub that provide free or discounted food to their communities we'd love to support your mission, learn more about our free community program. Written by Farmbrite's staff writers and farmers. Thanks for reading!

While many people start the new year off with a list of personal resolutions or goals, like loosing weight, drinking less or getting in shape, why not start your new year off by getting your farm organized and optimized? Keep reading for tips on how to get organized around the farm, be more productive and efficiency, save time and money, increase profits and best of all reduce operational stresses. 1) Organize your records One of the best ways to reduce stress is to get organized. Start by collecting all your farm records and getting them into an organization system. This could be as simple as a series of binders or a spreadsheet. Consider digitizing your farm records to simplify searching for and reporting on data and to prevent loosing important records in the future. 2) Write down & track tasks There is never a shortage of things to do around the farm. Organize your farm work by writing down your daily, weekly and seasonal tasks and getting them into a schedule, or a task list, not only helps to make sure the work gets done, but also gets those chores out of your head so you can think about other things. 3) Understand your financials Money is one of the leading causes of stress for people. Getting a good handle on your farm finances not only helps to reduce anxiety about farm margins and profits. It can also help to identify areas of your business that you might want to do less because they are less profitable and also identify places to invest. 4) Get your taxes out of the way Taxes are a necessary part of running any business. Avoid tax day anxiety by prioritize getting your tax documents organized and your filing done as early as possible. Getting them out of the way will reduce stress later. To make farm taxes easier next year, make sure your farm financial records are up to date, online and categorized. 5) Plan your season Whether you're growing fruits and vegetables for market, raising cattle for beef, breeding sheep, or keeping bees, having a detailed plan for your farm will keep things running smoothly all season long. Find a farm management system that works for you to help you plan your plantings, breedings, treatments, harvests and market dates. 6) Organize your work & team Sometimes it feels like there's too much to do around the farm and never enough time or people to get it all done. To help, try getting your whole team aligned and organized around farm work by setting goals, breaking work into manageable tasks, assigning work out to the team and getting the tasks on a schedule that everyone can see and update. 7) Organize supplies & inventory Nothing is more frustrating than not having the supplies or equipment you need to do a job. Start your season off right by taking stock of what you have on hand. Order seeds and supplies early to make sure you have everything you need. Keeping an accurate and ongoing record of your farm inventory can help alert you to re-order before you find yourself in a pinch. 8) Streamline farm orders Whether you sell direct to consumers, wholesale or to grain silos you're going to want an easy way to capture orders, collect payments and manage inventory, fulfillments and deliveries. Consider an online order management system to keep all your orders in one place and integrated through the whole lifecycle. 9) Leverage digital tools Pen & paper and spreadsheets are great, but if you really want to simplify and streamline things around the farm consider using a farm management software system. It can save you hundreds of hours of work a year, help improve your business, keep your records safe and best of all let you breathe a little easier. 😄 Happy Farming! Farmbrite is an all-in-one farming and livestock software system that's purpose built for multi-species and biodiverse farms & ranches that includes everything you need to plan, manage, report, track and sell - all from one simple to use place. If you're serious about getting your farm organized, optimized and running smoothly see how farm software can help.

If you own or work with sheep, you may be wondering what sheep drenching is. At its core, sheep drenching is the practice of administering a liquid medication to your sheep. It involves placing a small amount of an anti-parasitic drug into the animal's mouth, usually under the supervision of a veterinarian. If you own a flock of sheep, it's important that they receive regular dosing with a registered veterinary medicine approved for both internal and external parasites in livestock. What is sheep drenching? Sheep drenching involves the deliberate ingestion by sheep of an anti-parasitic drug. It is a common practice used in many countries around the world on sheep farms. The process involves mixing a liquid containing the active ingredient with water, and administering it to sheep’s mouth via a syringe. Drenching can be done either orally (in the mouth), or by intramuscular injection into muscle tissue. The benefits of drenching include: Prevention of parasitic infestations (which can cause significant harm to your flock) Reduction in production losses due to illness and death Fewer visits from your veterinarian who will be less likely to treat every case individually Reduction in labor costs associated with treating individual animals rather than the entire flock at once Keep Track of your sheep Drenching with Farmbrite. Does sheep drenching have to be done by a vet? Drenching is not required for all livestock, but it is definitely recommended for sheep. It is usually performed by a trained veterinarian in a controlled environment. The animal must be over six months old and in good health before drenching can be done. Sheep should be vaccinated before they are drenched to prevent against other diseases like pneumonia and worms. How does sheep drenching work? The process of sheep drenching requires a small amount of drug to be taken orally. To ensure that these medications are both safe for your flock and effective at treating the issue they're meant to address, it's important to understand how they work. It is also beneficial for a veterinarian to be present to ensure they are administers properly. The amount of drug that is given depends on the dosage and type of medication being used, but it's generally in the range of 1-3 ml per animal. The time it takes for the drug to take effect varies depending on what type of medication you are using and whether it's an injectable or oral solution. An ideal sheep drench needs to be readily absorbed into the blood stream, where it acts rapidly and breaks down with little residue left in the liver and muscle tissue. Typically this means that by 24 hours post-drenching you should see no residue in either organ. The benefits of regular sheep drenching Sheep drenching is a very effective way to prevent a variety of diseases from affecting your flock. Drenches are designed to treat health issues ranging from worms and lice to lungworm and pneumonia in sheep. They can be used as a preventative measure or as a treatment if you have already identified an issue with worms, internal parasites or external parasites in your flock. The most common types of sheep drench are those that prevent worm infestations. Using one of these products regularly prevents worms from reaching maturity and laying eggs within the animal's digestive system. This means they will not be passed on to other animals through their feces. It also means that future generations are less likely to become infected by worms either via direct contact with infected sheep or via contaminated pasture where worm eggs were deposited by previous generations of sheep. Worm infestations can cause numerous health problems for both humans and livestock, including: Malnutrition Diarrhea Anemia due to blood loss through the gastrointestinal tract (due mainly to heavy worm loads in young lambs) Reduced milk production in ewes (this can lead to lower productivity levels over time as well as increased mortality rates among young lambs during winter conditions when grazing quality is poor) Weight loss among weaned lambs if there are large numbers present within their body tissues at this stage How to administer a sheep drench Sheep drenching should be a pleasant experience for your animals. A sheep drench is a liquid medication that is placed into the rumen of a sheep via its mouth. The taste and palatability of the drench can have an impact on how quickly it’s accepted by your flock, which is why it’s important to choose something tasty and palatable to help improve its acceptance by sheep. There are several things you can do to make sure your sheep will take their meds happily: Use a mild tasting solution; don't use anything that's too bitter or sour Add some milk powder or cream if necessary - this helps mask any unpleasant tastes in the mix while still keeping up with the correct dose What are the side effects of sheep drenching? Sheep are usually very cooperative when it comes to being drenched, and most tend to experience few side effects from the procedure. The most common side effects are mild and include dizziness, fatigue, and diarrhea. If you notice that your sheep exhibit any of these symptoms after being drenched, you should consult a veterinarian immediately. Some animals may also experience a lack of appetite or flatulence following administration of sheep drench. How to avoid over-drenching your sheep If you're a sheep farmer, it's important that you give your animals the right amount of drench. Too much drench can be harmful for your sheep and make them more susceptible to parasites and worms. On the other hand, not enough drench will lead to an increase in health problems. Here are a few techniques to ensure you give each animal in your flock the proper amount of medication while drenching them. 1.) Collect fecal samples from the pasture before drenching. The first technique is to collect fecal samples from the pasture before determining how much dewormer to drench your flock with. This will help you to determine the level of parasites that your flock already has, so you can work with your veterinarian and dose your sheep accordingly. It’s important to collect at least three samples from each pasture of animals that you plan to drench, and take a sample at least 24 hours before drenching. Take these samples from different areas of the pasture (e.g. near trees or fences) as well as from different animals within that area. 2.) Separate young and dirty animals and drench them with a suitable drench. Young lambs and sheep that are dirty or have been exposed to contaminated pastures should be drenched with the appropriate drug. In addition to worming, it is also important to ensure that the animals are in good condition and are not stressed, as this can make them more susceptible to worm infestation. 3.) Separate your flock by size before drenching. Separating your flock into multiple size categories will allow you to dose each group properly. Weighing each sheep before drenching (or simply estimating based on their appearance) will allow you to create several groups that can all be given different doses at once. This is much easier than drenching the whole flock at once, since it that case you would have to weigh and determine the dose for each individual sheep before drenching them. The negative effects of over-drenching your sheep There are several negative effects of over-drenching your sheep. Here are a few of the main ones: • It is expensive - you’re using and paying for more of the drug than you need to. • It gives the worms immunity to the drugs, making it more difficult to control them in the future. • It can cause negative side effects in your sheep, including weight loss and liver damage. All in all, it’s important that you only give the correct amount of drench per animal so you don't have any negative consequences down the line. Treating new additions to your flock It's important to note that if you import or buy new animals to add to your flock, you won't know their infection status. This means you will need to test them for parasites before you introduce them to your existing flock. It's also important to note that the majority of drench products available are "single-dose" products and don't last for more than 24 hours after they've been administered. This means it’s very easy to miss an animal by mistake. To avoid this problem and make sure all your sheep receive a drench treatment when required, consider using a multi-dose product such as a Ivermectin/Fenbendazole combination or a Piperazine/Levamisole combination for sheep. Should I drench my show or pet sheep? Sheep drenching is a crucial part of any commercial operation and it's also important for keeping parasites at bay in pet or show flocks. Keeping sheep from becoming infested with worms and other parasites is a vital part of sheep farming, but there are also benefits to doing this for your animals' health that go beyond just preventing them from getting sick. If you own a flock of sheep, whatever their purpose is, it's important that they receive regular dosing with a registered veterinary medicine approved for both internal and external parasites. A drenching program is an essential part of good health management for your sheep. This is the easiest way to kill off worms, which can be responsible for some very unpleasant symptoms including weight loss, diarrhea and coughing. The best way to avoid this sort of problem is by regularly checking the health of your flock and ensuring they're healthy enough to resist worm infestations, along with regular drenching. Conclusion Remember: sheep drenching is crucial for keeping parasites at bay in sheep, whether they’re part of a commercial flock or a cherished pet. It is an important part of sheep management to make sure your flock receives regular treatment for both internal and external parasites. Be sure to talk with your veterinarian to learn more about this practice and to set up a regular drenching schedule, so your sheep can be as healthy as possible! Sources: https://teara.govt.nz/en/photograph/16927/drenching-sheep https://kippax-farms.co.uk/sheep/drenching-sheep-and-lambs https://www.sheepconnectsa.com.au/management/health/worms/drenching-sheep Courtney Garrett is a freelance writer and editor traveling the world as a digital nomad. She earned her Bachelor of Animal Science with a specialization in Livestock Science and Management in 2019, and has worked with dairy cattle, sheep, goats, dogs, chickens, and more over the past 10 years. When not writing, she enjoys horseback riding, swimming, and taking walks with her Havanese puppy, Ella.

The Ultimate Guide to Vermiculture If you're looking to save money and get healthier soil in your garden, a worm farm is the perfect solution. You'll be able to turn your food scraps into rich compost while feeding your worms with kitchen scraps and other carbon-rich materials like shredded paper or leaves. Worms are great at recycling food and turning it into rich soil—and they don't need much care! Here's everything you need to know about building a worm farm for your home. Choose the right worms Choosing the right type of worms is an important step in building your vermiculture farm. Red wigglers are the most common worm for composting because they're easy to care for and reproduce quickly. They eat a lot of food and produce a lot of compost—which makes them an ideal creature to have in your worm farm. Additionally, red wigglers aren't fussy about humidity or temperature (they like dark, damp places) so if you want to keep your farm indoors or in a humid environment like Florida, they'll do just fine! If your goal is a more advanced worm farm, you can try the Swedish Red Wigglers. They're smaller than red wigglers and have a longer lifespan (about 2 years), but they do require more care. They need humidity levels around 70% and a temperature between 50-75 degrees Fahrenheit. They also prefer to be fed on fruit and vegetable scraps, so if you're looking for something more sustainable or just want a different type of composting experience, this is a great option! Pick a bin that's right for you You can use any type of container for your vermiculture farm, but make sure it's large enough to hold all your worms. You'll also need a way to easily clean it without affecting the worms inside. A plastic bin will be easier to clean than a wooden crate or bucket, which you would have to empty out completely and scrub down before putting your worm farm back in. If you choose a plastic bin, make sure it has holes in the bottom so that moisture can escape. If not, moisture could build up and cause mold or mildew growth on top of your compost heap—which means bad news for both yourself and your worms! The container should also be easy to access and move around. If you plan on keeping your worm farm in a basement or garage, for example, it shouldn't be too heavy to lift or too large to move out of the way when necessary. Keep your worm farm in a cool, dry place The ideal place to keep your worm farm is in a cool, dry place. Be sure not to put it in direct sunlight or an area that gets cold, as this could kill off your worms and make them sick. In addition, if you live somewhere with high humidity (for example, the Pacific Northwest), you may want to consider keeping your vermiculture farm inside on a bookshelf. With enough sunlight and ventilation, you can also keep your worm farm outside. Just make sure that the worms have a place to hide from the rain and protection from the elements so that they won’t get too cold in winter. If you’re having trouble finding the right place for your worm farm, consider using a small fan to increase ventilation. You can also try placing it near an open window or outside on a table where there is some air flow. Give them lots of air flow Speaking of air flow, this is essential to the worms’ survival. You can provide air flow by using a fan or opening windows in your worm bin, but be careful not to let any rain or snow get inside. If you do use a fan, make sure it doesn’t blow directly on the bedding layer—you want it to circulate around the whole system. You should also make sure that there are holes in your bin for ventilation, as well as gaps between your lid and bin so that oxygen can seep through. Check regularly with a thermometer (or even just by putting your hand down into the bedding) to ensure that there isn't too much heat or cold coming from inside of it; if either one gets too extreme, then it can kill some of your compost worms. If you notice that your bin is getting too hot or cold, there are a few things that you can do to fix the problem. If it's cold outside, then adding some insulation (like bubble wrap) around the bottom of your bin will help keep heat from escaping. If it's hot outside, placing some ice cubes in a small plastic baggie and placing them on top of your bedding will help cool down your system without having to open up the lid. Mix in "browns," or carbon-rich foods In general, any type of food can be used for your worm farm. However, you should remember to mix in "browns," or carbon-rich foods like leaves and newspaper. Brown materials contain carbon, which is needed by worms to produce vitamin B12 and other nutrients that are essential for their health. The inclusion of brown material will help keep your worms healthy! Some examples of browns are: leaves, newspaper (without glossy ink), cardboard egg cartons (empty), paper towels (used dry), scrap cardboard boxes and old magazines (no glossy pages). Here is more information on using compost in your worm farm. You can also use food scraps and kitchen waste to feed your worm farm. The best way to do this is to place it in a covered bin, like a garbage can. You may want to add soil or dirt to the bin so that your worms have something to crawl on. When you see eggs or worms coming out of the material, it's time to start feeding your worms! If you aren't sure about a food, it's best to avoid feeding it to your worms. If you are unsure about whether or not something is safe for your worms, check with a local vermiculture expert. Keep track of your worms Another key part of vermiculture is keeping track of what you're feeding your worms, their temperatures, what you've added and much they have broken down. You can do this by using Farmbrite, on online farm and livestock management tool. Try today for free. Choose the right bedding Be sure to use bedding like sand, shredded paper or small wood chips that are free from chemicals or dyes. The most important thing is to sure your bedding is non-toxic and easy to find so you can replace it easily. Try not to use any type of paper that might contain dyes or chemicals as these can be harmful for the worms and will affect their health over time. You may want to try shredded newspaper instead of regular paper, as it's softer on the worms’ skin when they crawl through it. You can also use shredded cardboard or paper bags, as long as they aren’t coated with plastic. You should avoid using any type of plastic in your worm bin because worms cannot digest it and it will contaminate your compost pile. How to set up your worm farm Once you have your bin, the first step in setting up your worm farm is to fill it with bedding. Then you can add your worms, making sure they're covered with another layer of moist bedding before adding food. If you choose to use newspaper as a bedding material rather than soil or compost, be sure not to use glossy paper because it can cause irritation to the worm’s skin. If you're using a plastic bin, it's important to note that these containers should never be used for storing food. They are not airtight and will allow oxygen to escape, which can cause your worms to die. Maintaining your worm farm If you’re looking for a way to keep your worm population healthy and happy, crushed eggshells are a great addition to your farm. They can provide your worms with calcium, phosphorous, magnesium and zinc—and even copper in the case of older eggs. Eggshells will also help to maintain proper pH levels in your worm farm. This is especially important if you are growing your own food waste in an urban area where the soil may be low in nutrients. Some experts recommend adding crushed eggshells on top of each layer of food waste as it is added to the worm farm so that they get exposed every time they need it. The problem with crushed eggshells is that they can be messy. If you’re not careful, it’s easy to add too much or put the wrong type of egg in your worm farm (like duck eggs). If you want to use crushed eggshells, it’s best to crush them into small pieces with a hammer or pestle. You can also use whole eggs if you are careful not to add too many of these at once. The benefits of a worm farm A worm farm is a great way to recycle food waste and turn it into rich soil. Worms are natural recyclers, eating up to 1/3 of their body weight each day and processing it through their digestive system. They poop out the nutrient-rich leftovers, called castings, which can be used as fertilizer for plants. The worms will eat your food waste, including meat, dairy and even fish. All of these foods are high in protein and minerals like calcium, magnesium, sodium and chloride. The worms will also eat food scraps like breads, fruits and vegetables. You can compost your food waste in a bin, but the process may take up to three months. Or you can use a worm farm to speed things up! Feed your worms once or twice a week with fresh fruit and vegetable scraps like potato peels or carrot tops. If you have meat scraps they will eat those too! Worms are great for the environment because they produce little to no waste and don’t require any electricity or filters. They also help reduce your carbon footprint by reducing food waste sent to landfills. Conclusion Now you’re ready to start your own worm farm! Vermiculture is a great way to recycle food waste and create your own compost for gardening. You can save money and improve your garden soil with this easy type of farming that has been used for thousands of years. The best part is that once you have everything set up, worms farms are fairly low maintenance. Courtney Garrett is a freelance writer and editor traveling the world as a digital nomad. She earned her Bachelor of Animal Science with a specialization in Livestock Science and Management in 2019, and has worked with dairy cattle, sheep, goats, dogs, chickens, and more over the past 10 years. When not writing, she enjoys horseback riding, swimming, and taking walks with her Havanese puppy, Ella.

What is FCR - Feed Conversion Ratio? FCR stands for Feed Conversion Ratio. FCR is an effective way to measure the productivity of livestock by comparing the input (feed) required to produce an output (meat, eggs, etc). FCR provider farmers with a key performance metric to help evaluate the productivity and potential return on investment of an animal. It also can help a farmer to experiment with different feed types, species and inputs to determine how they may impact the animal FCR and ultimately its productivity. It's important to note that the calculations for FCR vary depending on they type of livestock and what is being produced. For example: For animals raised for meat - Feed Conversion Rate measures the feed required for the animal to gain 1 pound or kilogram of body weight For dairy animals - FCR looks at the feed required to produce 1 gallon or liter of milk And for layer poultry - FCR most often looks at the amount of feed required for your flock to produce 1 dozen eggs. Benefits of Tracking Feed Conversion Ratio Tracking Feed Conversion Ratios for your livestock is an important aspect of understanding the productivity and profitability of your livestock business. Regularly measuring and evaluating your animal's FCR can help you to: Evaluate if an animal is likely a poor producer, which may impact their breeding potential Identify animals that maybe in poor health or have other environmental aspects effecting their productivity Determine profitable sales prices that factor in the cost of your inputs to produce your yields Estimate feed needs and cost for livestock (which is often about 70% of your production costs) Test and compare the efficiency and impact of different feeds Better understand the overall profitability of your operation and make informed decisions about animals, grazing patterns and feed types Increase or decrease supplements Compare your livestock to species or industry production benchmarks to understand how well your animals are performing How to calculate Feed Conversion Ratio The Feed conversion ratio (FCR) is calculated using the following formula: FCR Formula For animals raised for meat, FCR is calculated as: FCR = Total feed consumed (lbs/kg) / Total animal weight (lbs/kg) Total weight = final weight of animal – starting weight animal during that period. Farmers may evaluate FCR for both live and hang weights of animals to determine different production ratios. For dairy animals, FCR is calculated as: FCR = Total feed consumed (lbs/kg) / Total milk produced (gallons/liters) in that period For layer poultry, FCR is typically calculated as: FCR = Total feed consumed (lbs/kg) / Eggs produced (dozens) in that period FCR can be calculated on a rolling bases, where you evaluate the total amount feed compared to the weight gained in that period (month, year, etc) Factors Influencing FCR Let's take a look at some of the factors that can influence Feed Conversion Ratios results: Animal overall health and well being Environmental conditions the animal is exposed to (temperature, light, adequate space, water, etc) Quality and nutrition of feed Grazing patterns and forage quality Stage of animal's growth (FCR is very different for a calf than for a nursing cow) Different animal genetics of species variations Feed Conversion Ratios for Different Animals I'm sure it comes as no surprise that different livestock types have different average Feed Conversion Ratios. These averages can also vary by breeds. Here's some commons livestock animal types and their average FCR: How to Improve Feed Conversion Ratio As we talked about previously FCR helps to evaluate productivity of your animals based on their ability to convert feed into yield. But, before making changes to try and improve an animal's FCR it's important to get an accurate FCR base line for the animal and compare it to industry and species averages. Depending on the potential cause for an animals poor FCR score here are a few ideas on how to potentially improve their Feed Conversion Ratio: Ensure the animals have a safe, comfortable environment and housing with proper light, temperature and space requirements. Monitor and track body condition score to help determine animal health. Regularly monitor animal health and stay current on vaccinations. Feed livestock the correct diet at the right portions based on the animals growth stage and other nutritional needs to ensure they can absorb the most nutritional value from their food. Feed Conversion Ratio (FCR) Calculator Summary Hopefully this article provides you with some additional background and insight into the value of tracking key animal metrics like Feed Conversion Ratios. Understanding your livestock health and growth is critical to ensuring high quality products and strong profits. Farmbrite is a complete farm and livestock management system. If you're interested in simplifying the tracking and management of your livestock data, check out Farmbrite to streamline livestock health, growth, feeding, breeding and other key records - including automating FCR reporting for you.

Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) has been around for centuries, it’s just had different names and frameworks throughout different cultures and continents. Here in America, the CSA movement has really picked up in popularity within the last two decades. Today, there are over 2,500 operating CSA scattered around the United States. Similar programs are also popular and exist in Canada. Is a CSA right for your crop and community? The Benefits of a CSA CSA benefits both producer and consumer. The CSA allows producers to sell directly to consumers without a middle entity, which translates to less money invested in distribution and more affordable prices for the consumer. The Format of Community Supported Agriculture The typical format for today’s CSA includes a producer(s) and a consumer membership. Some farms, orchards, ranches, etc. have their own CSA program, and other producers join together to create a CSA that offers a variety of products. Membership Prices Membership prices may range anywhere from $400 to $700 per season, and are always dependent on the size of the CSA share and offerings. Many CSA will offer two size options. Some CSAs offer options as low as $200 and others can be more expensive, especially if they offer bi-weekly deliveries. The Four Community Supported Agriculture Frameworks Farmer Managed This is where a farmer will set up his / her own CSA, recruits members (subscribers) and controls all aspects of the CSA such as management, delivery, etc. Farmer Cooperative This is when multiple farmers join together to form a CSA membership program. Shareholder / Subscriber This occurs when local residents create a CSA and then hire a farmer or multiple farmers to grow the preferred crops. The shareholders/subscribers will typically control the management of the CSA. Farmer / Shareholder Cooperative This is when farmers and local residents or the community set up and cooperatively manage the CSA together. What Comes in a Community Supported Agriculture Share? Consumers typically receive a range of freshly harvested items including vegetables, herbs and fruits (usually organic) every week during a certain period of time. Since the majority of CSA’s operate in locations with four climates, a CSA may be set for a certain number of weeks or months, typically during peak growth and harvest periods. Some CSAs will also eggs, dairy such as cheese and milk, honey, cut flowers, beef, pork, poultry, fresh-baked bread, homemade soap, tinctures, and more. If you're not sure what to grow here is an article about the top 3 plants to grow in the fall. How are Community Supported Agriculture Shares Distributed? Most CSA shares are distributed weekly, and in-season. There are a variety of means to getting the CSA share to the consumer. Here are the most popular methods. Onsite Pick-Up: If near to your CSA community and you have the space on your farm or land, offer to have consumers pick up their share onsite. This has two major benefits. (1) Facetime with the consumer and (2) the consumer can see the growth and harvest. Farmers’ Markets: There are two different formats for Farmers’ Market pickups. (1) The CSA might have to rent a booth throughout the season to have a legal and licensed point of pick up offsite from personal property or (2) many Farmers’ Markets will allow free space to a CSA for their pick-up customers. School / Community Space: Many CSAs will take advantage of a free, public space or parking lot as a place to set up distribution. Delivery: It’s still commonplace for CSA shares to be delivered, by hand, to customers’ homes. Customers are instructed to leave out a cooler during hot days for deliveries. Why Do Consumers Want to Join Community Supported Agriculture? The benefits are plentiful for both producer and consumer. For the producer, according to Green America, “The CSA model is more sustainable than traditional grocery stores as it connects consumers directly to more local food sources. That means that the produce travels a much shorter distance, saving fuel, and the direct-to-consumer relationship means the farmer retains a larger share of the profit.” The organization also points out that, “CSAs benefit farmers by distributing both the bounty and risks of the harvest across the farmer and consumers. For example, if one crop doesn’t do well in a season, the CSA member could get more of another crop that did grow better.” The benefits are equally as delightful and economically profitable for the consumer. Green America states, “CSAs also allow consumers to eat more sustainable, in-season produce. Consumers can also save up to 40 percent on in-season and organic (or close-to-it) produce over buying from the grocery store by joining as well according to DailyFinance.com.” Challenges of Creating and Maintaining Community Supported Agriculture The greatest challenge is maintaining a consistent membership, and a consistent product. Consumers get very angry if an entire week’s share is dedicated to one or two items such as mint and cucumber. While consumers are acquainted with natural challenges and obstacles of consistency, they do expect quality and variety. Transportation costs have great influence on food and production costs. When setting pricing at the beginning of a farm year, factor in the drastic change that can occur within a couple months’ time. 2022 is an excellent example of extreme gas price increase, and that directly impacts every Community Supported Agriculture Community. There are also struggles for the consumer. In an article written for Food Network, writer Dana Angelo White, M.S., R.D., A.T.C. notes that, “Unfortunately, CSA programs are still hard to find in some areas. Some can be extremely expensive, so you need to do your homework to make sure you’re getting the best program for your money. I’ve seen prices vary anywhere from $300-$1000 a year. You also don’t have control over what you’ll get in your weekly box. Farmers decide what they have enough of to go around (they might save certain items for sale at the farmers' markets). A large, weekly box of foods can get overwhelming and give you more than you know what to do with, which leads to waste.” You might also be wondering how to keep up with what to grow, how much you need to plant and how to keep track of what you harvest. We've got you covered at Farmbrite! Here are also some tips of harvesting the perfect market crops. Giving Bonuses in your CSA! A popular CSA marketing and education tool is to include recipes in the CSA delivery. By featuring produce in the share, consumers are more inclined to try new vegetables and fruits, and use their entire CSA share with minimal waste and maximum pleasure. Find a Local Community Supported Agriculture Share Near You! localharvest.org Extended Options The sky's the limit on what you might want to sell and how. Often CSA's offer weekly deliveries as well as pick-up locations. So you can also offer that as an add on. You might simply offer an add-on menu which might be offered each week to the members of your CSA. Your customer simply replies by email to any extra items, or orders them online and it will be included in the weekly share whether pick-up or have it delivered. Offering Different CSA Share Options There are many different ways that you can set up your CSA. You can offer a short season, and long season or month to month. You can offer a sign up for the entire 16-week season or a second option of a shorter eight-week season. There might also a month to month CSA option if you're just getting started or for the person who travels a lot in the summer. You can also offer different types of shares. A single person share, a 2 person share or a family share. Offering Add ons Along with the regular share or family share which might change weekly, you might also offer add ons to your CSA. It could be flowers, herb, meat or just more of what you're already offering. And don't forget to include a recipe to help enhance the consumer’s experience. Not everyone knows how to cook all the items that might be included in their box. Other Types of CSAs A CSA is a great way for the community to get involved with their local food. There are many different ways to offer customers CSA options and even more options for things that you can offer to them. Here are just a few options: Vegetables, Meat, Milk, Soap, Wool (Sell what you produce) Mutli-farm CSA Flexible week CSA Half-yearly Growing season Year round (provide what's in season-it may not just be food) Herbal CSA (medicinal or culinary herbs) Flower CSA Consumer or Chef CSA CSA add ons (things made by you) Classes (Canning, flower arranging, soap making, etc.) Here is another resource to get out more information about starting a CSA and if it might be right for you. We've seen many different flavors of CSA's over the years from semi-yearly or monthly CSA's, add ons, classes and more. The type of CSA you choose to offer is really up to your imagination and what your customers are looking for in your community. Farmbrite helps many farms with their CSA's. Take a look at our software free for 14 days.

In order to manage soil moisture, it must be measured Agriculture is experiencing more volatility than ever. With the increase in water, energy, fuel, and fertilizer costs alongside more extreme effects of climate change like longer droughts and heavy rainfall events, and an increased demand for food, and retailer sustainability goals, growers are under more pressure to work more efficiently with the resources available. In many places in the past, fresh water was readily available and since it was plentiful, we used a little more than necessary. We're beginning to realize that water and other resources should be preserved. The water which we have available should be used as efficiently as possible to optimize yields. Many water management solutions are emerging, from the use of stand-alone watering systems to fully integrated Cloud based platforms. However, to manage something like the moisture in soil it first needs to be measured. Accurate, real-time soil moisture data is needed to support decision making and to be fed into automated systems. Besides the raw data, it may even be more important to interpret the numbers delivered from the systems to make the information actionable – and that starts with the soil. A key issue found with traditional monitoring systems is the cost, complexity, high maintenance requirements and difficulty to integrate one system with another. Smart, wireless IoT sensors are now challenging the status quo, making it much easier - and cheaper -to get an accurate picture of the soil moisture levels in orchards and fields. Calibration is key. Because different soil types behave differently, it’s necessary to calibrate soil moisture data for the specific local context of the soil where the sensors have been placed. There are many sensor providers who offer a standard moisture level, but they don’t account for the local soil conditions, which is a disservice to the user as they won’t be able to get the full picture of the behavior of water within their soil. For example, clay soils with different compositions of organic matter and sand (along with other factors) will have different moisture holding capacity, and thus their high and low irrigation thresholds should reflect those differences. One size doesn’t fit all when it comes to soil, and that’s why we continually add to our standard calibration library to support all soil types. Sensoterra’s newest generation wireless soil moisture sensors are revolutionizing the way soil moisture data is monitored: The sensors are low-cost, which means that more sensors can be placed for less money. Data can be retrieved with the free Sensoterra app, but the sensors are built to integrate. The open API, enables integrations with water management platforms and solutions. The sensors can be installed in <1 minute without use of additional tools, because the sensors are hammerable (patented). The sensors are 100% maintenance free, with a built- in battery which runs up to 8 years. High accuracy is achieved with an extensive library of standard soil calibrations. Different sensor lengths are available for different applications. Sensoterra sensors are installed in more than 40 countries, saving the owners up to 50% on water and fuel. About Sensoterra Sensoterra provides data-driven solutions for optimizing land and freshwater resources for smart resilient cities, water and drought management, and agriculture/horticulture. The easy-to-install, rugged and long-lasting soil moisture sensors offer real-time soil moisture readings optimal for data integration. Based in Utrecht, Sensoterra’s aim is to improve water management with integrated soil moisture data. Operating in more than 40 countries, soil moisture sensors generate over 60 million global data points, optimized for integration. Learn more at www.sensoterra.com Author Bio René Voogt Chief Commercial Officer at Sensoterra Bio: René studied geo-informatics and has held senior commercial roles within GIS companies (i.a. ESRI) before. He has more than 5 years experience in the global IoT sector and previously, René has founded ConnectedGreen, a platform for sensor-based workflow management for landscapers and Smart City.

Water. Rest. Shade these are the three components to OSHA's heat illness prevention campaign that they launched in 2011. They are a good reminder for those of us that work outside in the heat. Every year thousands of cases of heat illness are reported and unfortunately many of them resulted in a loss of life. Heat illness can effect anyone regardless of age, gender, or physical ability. When you're working out in the field it's good practice to understand the symptoms and what to do in case someone is suffering from them. Tips for staying cool while working outdoors: Keep a wet cloth and sunscreen in a cooler and use on breaks Wear breathable clothes Mist yourself with water Apply ice or cool water to pulse points Stay hydrated Wear a hat Dress appropriately Take breaks in the shade or cool area Signs of heat exhaustion: * Cool, moist skin with goose bumps when in the heat * Heavy sweating * Faintness * Dizziness * Fatigue * Weak, rapid pulse * Low blood pressure upon standing * Muscle cramps * Nausea * Headache What to do if you have heat exhaustion: + Move person to a cooler area + Let the person lay down and loosen clothing + Apply cool, wet clothes to as much of the body as possible + Fan or move them to an air conditioned area + Offer sips of water + If person vomits more than once seek medical attention Signs of Heat Stroke: (Heat stroke is much more severe and should be treated by a medical professional) * Throbbing headache, confusion, nausea, dizziness, shallow breathing * Body temperature of above 103°F * Extreme thirst * Red, hot, dry or moist skin * Rapid pulse * Fainting, convulsions or loss of consciousness What to do if you have heat stroke: + Call 911 emergency + Reduce temperature until the ambulance arrives A good way of preventing heat exhaustion or heat stroke is to provide a cool, place in the shade. Here are some other ideas and ways to prevent workers from experiencing heat illness. Ways to prevent heat illness: Provide workers with water, rest areas and shade. Allow new or returning workers to gradually increase workloads and take more frequent breaks as they acclimate to the heat (while the build a tolerance for working in the heat.) Plan for emergencies and train workers on prevention. Monitor workers for signs of illness. Or have them check in with each other. Need a way to keep track of your tasks, schedule and farm work? Try Farmbrite! Get started today.

When it comes to growing a goat herd there's a few rules of thumb to follow to help your caprines get the job done. On the other hand, goats are pretty savvy breeders and if the stars are aligned, your bucks and does should have no trouble getting it on. But let's go ahead and dig into some of the basics of goat breeding so you know what to expect going into it for the first time. How to Breed Goats Goats are often bred in three different ways. 1. Pen Breeding: Bringing an in-heat doe to the buck 2. Field Breeding: Letting the buck run with the does 3. Artificial Insemination You rarely have to intervene in the process of breeding if you have a good buck. Simply bringing the doe to his pen, when she is in heat, will usually be enough to get the job done. On the other hand, leaving your buck to run with a herd of does for at least 21 days should also get the job done. You see, does typically come into heat every 21 days. So, you can watch individual does for signs of heat, or you can let your buck do the heavy lifting on his own. Lastly, if you prefer not to keep a buck, or have a very in-depth genetic program, AI is a great option as well. The only downfall is the amount of work that goes into the process of uncovering heat cycles, storing the semen straws, and the actual act of inserting the samples. Do You Need to Keep A Buck? Unless you're using AI, you'll need a buck to breed your does. But, there are also plenty of people who are willing to stud their bucks out to those who prefer not to keep a buck on their property. In order to make this kind of arrangement, both animals must be health tested before breeding to ensure both are disease free. When to Breed Goats While many goat breeds come into estrus once every 21 days for about 24 hours, there are times of the year when they are more willing to get the job done. Fall, for example, is when goats prefer to breed. So if you plan accordingly, you can have plenty of kids in the springtime (a goats gestation period is 5 months). With that being said, there are certain ethnic holidays that you might want to take into consideration if you're breeding meat goats. If you time it just right, you can sell goats for top dollar during these holidays. What Age Should You Breed A Goat? Goats reach sexual maturity at around 8 months, but bucklings can actually breed their mothers much sooner than that. Just because a doe has reached sexual maturity doesn't mean she should be bred at that age. In fact, goats should be bred when they're at the optimal size for their specific breed. This will ensure the pregnancy will be easy on the doe and the kids will have a better chance of reaching full term and being healthy. Energetic bucklings will show signs of breeding behavior (or rut) as soon as a few days after birth. But these little behaviors don't mean they can get the job done already. They're just practicing at this age. In fact, most does will not allow a buckling to breed them. They truly prefer a big stinky buck and an overeager youngster may find himself in a bit of a pickle with the ladies if he barks up the wrong tree. Signs a Goat is in Heat It can be easy to determine when some does are in heat. A doe in heat may: Become more vocal Act more aggressive Become more playful Flag their tails Show more interest in the buck pen across the farm Stand still for a buck to mount them And some of the physical signs might include a swollen vulva or an increase in discharge. It’s important to note that not all does show signs of being in heat. How to Tell if a Goat Doe is Bred If you’re wondering if the buck was successful in the moment, watch for the doe to arch her back after being mounted. This is usually a sign that the breeding was successful However, just because the deed was done doesn’t always mean the pregnancy will be viable. So, the two easiest ways to tell if a goat is bred are through a blood test and an ultrasound. But other behavior signs that point to a bun in the oven might be: Growing tummy that sits higher (closer to the spine) Growing udder (this can happen gradually or quickly) Slight personality changes Absence of heat cycle More vocal Nudging or pawing at her stomach later on in pregnancy Talking to her tummy as the pregnancy progresses Less lightly to start play fights with herd-mates More "off on their own" Laying down more often closer to term If you know your goat well, you'll pick up on some of these signs as time goes on. Keeping notes on these behaviors and comparing them from year to year can make planning and prepping for kids a lot easier! Track your breeding, pedigree, genealogy notes, and all your goat herd health information to learn about your herd and make sound decisions as you grow your farm. Amanda Pieper is an accomplished agricultural writer who owns and operates a small goat farm in Wisconsin. Amanda is laser-focused on raising healthy goats and pasture-raised poultry.

1.) Add light to chicken coop If you want to have them lay all year you will need to supplement their light. They need between 14-16 hours of light to lay. If they don't get this they will molt and stop laying. Some people give their chickens a break but that isn't usually the case for working hens. 2.) Keep your chickens entertained In the summer they have plenty to dig up, run after and keep them busy. So, in the inter months your flock might get a little bored and they might end up pecking at eat other.. Give them something to do. Give them a pumpkin, cabbage head, squash or block to pick apart instead. Chickens are amazing compost turners. Add a compost pile to your chicken run and let them turn the soil for you. 3.) Heating your chicken coop Depending on your climate you may not need a heater and truthfully heaters can be a safety hazard. A hen's body temperature is 106° F and their feathers are a natural insulator. The hens will roost together and will keep each other warm. But there may be times that you need to give them a little more warmth. If you use the deep bedding method (adding more shavings on top of the other shavings) it will add to the insulation and increased heat due to the composting materials. 4.) Adding Ventilation to chicken coop Although on very cold nights you might want the option to close up the coop, it is better to have the ventilation and air circulation in your coop. All the decomposing matter and build up can cause an overwhelming amount of ammonia build up in your coop. Also depending on the types of chickens you raise they have adapted (or have been breed) to be cold hardy). Installing high windows that open and close (and have predator proof screen on them) are a great option for this type of ventilation. 5.) Moving your chicken coop Depending on your type of greenhouse you could also move the chickens into an unused greenhouse or chicken tractor for some portion of the winter. They would be protected from the elements. They will dig up the ground and fertilize at the same time. Just make sure it doesn't get too hot. At the same time you could add a cover crop to the chicken run which will supply them food in the spring and summer. 6.) Chicken and snow Chickens will run around in most weather. But if you have deep snow for long periods of time you may want to add some straw or hay to cover the snow so it is easier for them to move around. When the weather is particularly cold, be on the lookout for frostbite on chicken beaks and feet. 7.) A room with a view Sometimes it's nice to get a different view, who doesn't like a nice view. Creating some different spots to roost will give your chickens many options to Your chickens may enjoy a different spot to roost if you live in a climate where you get deep snow. 8.) Watering chickens in the winter Keep a heated waterer so that the hens have access to fresh water that isn't frozen. It's important to have available and clean water. 9.) Winter chicken egg production Collect the eggs in the morning and evening so that they don't freeze. You'll know that the egg has frozen because it expands and cracks. 10.) Keep the chicken coop dry Hens will spend more time in the coop during the winter. Stop moisture and leaks so that they have a dry environment to roost. 11.) Keep pests and predators out of your chicken coop The winter brings other hungry animals. You don't want them in the coop and transferring diseases to your flock. Block up small holes and areas that could bring in unwanted guests. Learn more how to protect your chicken flock from predators. 12.) Chickens love dust bathes Chickens give themselves dust baths to keep down mites and other unwanted pests. In the winter it's harder to find a patch of dry ground to give yourself a nice dust bath. So, adding one to your coop is a nice way for chickens to keep up their hygiene and also give them something to do. Add some dirt and sand to a large container and add it to their coop in a dry spot.

All the doom and gloom reporting on farming is disheartening. An increasing population, hunger, food waste, crop failures, farmers getting out of farming. Feeding 9(+) billion people in the coming years seems like a daunting task but from the farmers I know and meet through Farmbrite, I believe we're up to the task.  Instead of getting discouraged by these numbers we should work to be better producers, growers, ranchers and farmers. We have 30 harvests before 2050 and we need to get smarter about our farming practices. My grandfather repeated the old adage to me many times, "work smarter." He was a successful, hardworking businessman and farmer. If we value this kind of thinking we can succeed in any business, farming not excluded. ​In an effort to feed this growing world population, small farms get overlooked because they are not producing as much and don't make as much. I think they are an undervalued player in our food resources. These farms feed themselves, their employees, as well as producing for others. The unreported amount of food doesn't get calculated in the amount produced and their hard work is often discounted. On the other hand, large farms are the powerhouses of farming. They are organized, mechanized, and have coherent processes helping them run a streamlined agricultural business. But those streamlined processes sometimes come at a high cost to natural resources.  Let's not let this get personal. Why does it have to be one or the other is better? To bring about change we have to take the emotion out of it and work together. Here are some interesting statistics about both large and small scale farming. Global farm statistics One acre of land can grow a variety of crops, including 50,000 pounds of strawberries or 2,784 pounds (46.4 bushels) of wheat-depending on the climate. (We can grow a lot of food on a small amount of land.) The amount of feed (grain, forage, etc.) a dairy cow needs to eat to produce 100 pounds of milk has decreased by more than 40% on average in the last 40 years. (We're getting more efficient.) A staggering 40% of all food grown in the U.S. is never eaten. (We could be much more efficient and reduce waste.) The USDA counted 2.1 million farms in the 2012 census, more than half of which reported farm commodity sales of less than $10,000. (Small farms are out there working hard and could use some help.) In 2017 according to the USDA, there were over 321,000 young farmers (under the age of 35) in the U.S. up from 2012, when there were 208,000. (More people are interested in getting into agriculture.) The average farm in China and India is about 3 acres. (Small farms can be efficient and feed many people.) Large farms in the EU produce 71% of their agricultural ​output, but account for just 6.3% of total farms. (UK large farms are producing very well.) Large industrial farms in the U.S. with over $1 million in sales account for 4% of all farms but 66% of sales.  (US large farms are producing very well.) Since 1994 the number of farmer markets in the US has grown to 8,720 and increase of 7+% from 2013. (People like supporting their local farmer-large or small.) Check out this post to learn about other global agriculture land use statistics. It's been said that small farms are less efficient, have a hard time finding land, are failing like many small businesses do in the first 5 years and aren't really "farms" at all because they don't support themselves from farming. Large farms make a bigger splash in the capitalistic pond and so get more press. They also are able to buy better/newer machinery/resources, are sometimes subsidized and often have been farming longer which often means they have efficient processes and possibly inherited the land and don't have to find/buy/or lease land. But don't count out the small farm. Small farmers are on the rise, willing to share their information with others and are often times working for that dream while holding a second job-off farm. Down doesn't mean out. All this means is small farms need more efficiency in their farming practices. Using more mechanized planting (using DIY options), vertical farming, cover crops, no-till farming practices, better storage, pest and weed control, more efficient tools for planting, weeding and harvesting, and all and all better processes. YouTube is filled with videos helping small producers grow smarter and be more efficient with growing practices. If we spread ideas across  Another win for the small farmer is that they tend to grow diversified crops instead of one mono-crop on their land and use crop rotation which builds the soil and keeps carbon in the soil keeping the planet cooler. Both- and thinking. Large family farms have more resources, possibly subsidies, better machinery, and own the land which helps them keep their heads above water -even when it's flooding. But it means they often use practices that are harsh on the environment or wasteful; large quantities of pesticides, large scale tilling and leaving food waste at harvest. They also may not be growing food for food-they are growing food for biofuel, animal feed and processed food. It also means they are good at growing a lot of food. Which we're going to need if we're going to feed all these people. We just need to be smarter about how we go about it. But large farms need our help just as much as the small farm. Their costs are high and their risk is greater. They need to support themselves and their families just like we do.   So, there seems to be a market for both types of farm. The use of crop diversity and smart growing practices is better for our health and the environment but we need the larger producers to continue to grow some types of crops in large quantities. How about a truce? We can work to find ways to support the small farm grow and be successful and help the large farm have better growing practices. One tool is our support. Even as farmers we sometimes need to buy food we're not growing. As consumers, when you shop, buy food from local small farms and support the large farms that are working toward sustainable practices in the grocery stores. Do your research and know who you're buying from. Another way is as farmers we can spread the word about our own practices and what works and what doesn't. We can also be better farmers by using tools and growing practices that are shown to be more efficient. Lastly, we can think outside of the box and try new things; start a local growing co-op. You're produce and your neighbors produce can be sold together. Let's get innovative; I'm not talking about expensive gadgets but things like vertical farming, aquaponics, aeroponics and more innovative ways of growing food.  The solution is in the how we work smarter together. ​ ​